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		<title>Remembering Juanita Nelson</title>
		<link>https://www.quakerranter.org/one-of-the-hands-down-coolest-most-badass-activists-of-her-or-any-generation-juanita-nelson-1923-2015/</link>
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		<dc:creator><![CDATA[Martin Kelley]]></dc:creator>
		<pubDate>Tue, 10 Mar 2015 21:35:15 +0000</pubDate>
				<category><![CDATA[Nonviolence]]></category>
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		<guid isPermaLink="false">http://www.quakerranter.org/?p=37334</guid>

					<description><![CDATA[One of the coolest activists of her (or any) generation is gone. Juanita Nelson’s obituary is up on the national war tax coalition’s site. My favorite Juanita story was when some agents came to arrest her at home and found her dressed only in a bathrobe. They told her it was okay to go into [&#8230;]]]></description>
										<content:encoded><![CDATA[<p><a href="https://i0.wp.com/www.quakerranter.org/wp-content/uploads/2015/03/juanita04.jpg?ssl=1"><img data-recalc-dims="1" fetchpriority="high" decoding="async" class="alignright wp-image-37515 size-medium" src="https://i0.wp.com/www.quakerranter.org/wp-content/uploads/2015/03/juanita04.jpg?resize=223%2C300&#038;ssl=1" alt="juanita04" width="223" height="300" srcset="https://i0.wp.com/www.quakerranter.org/wp-content/uploads/2015/03/juanita04.jpg?resize=223%2C300&amp;ssl=1 223w, https://i0.wp.com/www.quakerranter.org/wp-content/uploads/2015/03/juanita04.jpg?w=428&amp;ssl=1 428w" sizes="(max-width: 223px) 100vw, 223px"></a>One of the coolest activists of her (or any) generation is gone. Juanita Nelson’s <a href="http://www.nwtrcc.org/Juanita_Nelson_remembered.php">obituary is up on the national war tax coalition’s site</a>. My favorite Juanita story was when some agents came to arrest her at home and found her dressed only in a bathrobe. They told her it was okay to go into her bedroom to change but she refused. She told them that any shame was theirs. She forced them to carry her out as her clothes fell off. Talk about radical non-cooperation!</p>
<h2>Update</h2>
<p>Pam McAllister pointed out on her <a href="https://www.facebook.com/pages/Global-Nonviolence-Stories-of-Creative-Action/491311394303477">Global Nonviolence: Stories of Creative Action</a> Facebook page that <a href="http://www.nwtrcc.org/matter-of-freedom.php">this story is online</a>. Here’s a bit more of Juanita herself telling that bit:</p>
<blockquote><p>
  Seven law enforcement officers had stalked in. I sat on the stool beneath the telephone, my back literally to the wall, the seven hemming me about in a semicircle. All of them appeared over six feet tall, and all of them were annoyed.</p>
<p>  “Look,” said one, “you’re gonna go anyway. You might as well come peaceful.”</p>
<p>  There they stood, ready and able to take me at any moment. But no move was made. The reason was obvious.</p>
<p>  “Why don’t you put your clothes on, Mrs. Nelson?” This was a soft spoken plea from the more benign deputy. “You’re not hurting anybody but yourself.” His pained expression belied the assertion.
</p></blockquote>
<p>The essay where that came from is <a href="http://www.nwtrcc.org/matter-of-freedom.php">much longer and well worth reading</a>.</p>
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		<post-id xmlns="com-wordpress:feed-additions:1">37334</post-id>	</item>
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		<title>Normcore and the new-old Quaker plain</title>
		<link>https://www.quakerranter.org/normcore-and-the-new-old-quaker-plain/</link>
					<comments>https://www.quakerranter.org/normcore-and-the-new-old-quaker-plain/#respond</comments>
		
		<dc:creator><![CDATA[Martin Kelley]]></dc:creator>
		<pubDate>Tue, 18 Mar 2014 16:04:32 +0000</pubDate>
				<category><![CDATA[Quaker]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[blog]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[clothes]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[clothing]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[fashion]]></category>
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		<guid isPermaLink="false">http://www.quakerranter.org/?p=38541</guid>

					<description><![CDATA[In the last few weeks, the fashion segment of the Internet has gone all a‑buzz over new term “Normcore.” Normal, everyday, clothing is apparently showing up in downtown Manhattan—gasp! Like many trendy terms, it’s not really so new: back in the nineties and early oughts, Gap ruled the retail world with posters showing celebrities and [&#8230;]]]></description>
										<content:encoded><![CDATA[<p>In the last few weeks, the fashion segment of the Internet has gone <a href="http://nymag.com/thecut/2014/02/normcore-fashion-trend.html">all a‑buzz</a> over new term “Normcore.” Normal, everyday, clothing is apparently showing up in downtown Manhattan—gasp! Like many trendy terms, it’s not really so new: back in the nineties and early oughts, Gap <a href="http://www.businessinsider.com/how-gap-came-apart-at-the-seams-2012-1">ruled the retail world</a> with posters <a href="http://www.advertisingarchives.co.uk/?service=search&amp;action=do_quick_search&amp;language=en&amp;q=Gap">showing celebrities and artists wearing t‑shirts and jeans</a> available at the local mall store. “Normcore” is just the leading edge of the utterly-predicable 20-year fashion industry pendulum swing.</p>
<p>It also perhaps signals a cultural shift away from snobbery and into embracing roots. One of the most popular posts on the New York Times’s website last year <a href="http://www.nytimes.com/interactive/2013/12/20/sunday-review/dialect-quiz-map.html">celebrated regional accents</a> (apparently Philadelphians are allowed to <a href="http://www.theatlanticcities.com/neighborhoods/2013/04/strange-decline-philly-accent/5135/">talk like Philadelphians again</a>).</p>
<p>An analogue to this fashion trend has been occuring among Friends for a little while now. The “New Plain” discussion have revolved around reclaiming an attitude, not a uniform.</p>
<p>If you read the old Quaker guide books (called “Books of Discipline” then, now more often called “Faith and Practice”), you’ll see that unlike other plain-dressing American groups like the Amish, Quakers didn’t intend their clothes to be a uniform showing group conformity. Instead, plainness is framed in terms of interior motivations. Avoiding fashion trends helped Friends remember that they were all equal before God. It also spoke to our continuing testimony of integrity, in that Friends were to dress the same way in different contexts and so vouchsafe for a single identity.</p>
<p>When I began feeling the tug of a leading toward plainness it was for what I began calling “Sears Plain,” indicating that I wore clothes that I could find in any box store or mall. I developed a low-maintenance approach to fashion that freed up my time from shopping and the morning dressing ritual. Modern plainness can lessen the temptation to show off in clothes and it can reduce the overall wardrobe size and thus reduce our impact on the environment and with exploited labor. But all this is nothing new and it never really disappeared. If you looked around a room of modern Quakers you’ll often see a trend of sartorial boringness; I was simply naming this and putting it in the context of our tradition.</p>
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<p>Over time I found that these motivations were more prevalent in the wider culture, especially in the minimalist techie scene. Steve Jobs famously sported a uniform of black turtleneck, jeans, and New Balance sneakers (<a href="http://gawker.com/5848754/steve-jobs-on-why-he-wore-turtlenecks">explained in 2011</a>). In a 2012 profile, Barack Obama <a href="http://www.vanityfair.com/politics/2012/10/michael-lewis-profile-barack-obama">talked about limiting his clothes</a> to two colors of suits so that he could free up his decision-making energies on more important issues (I wrote about his fashion in “<a href="https://www.quakerranter.org/2012/09/plain-like-barack/">Plain like Barack</a>”).</p>
<p>Non-celebrities also seem interested in working out their relationship with fashion. My articles on modern plainness have always been a big draw on my blog. While my fellow Quakers are sometimes mildly embarrassed by our historic peculiarities, outsiders often eat this stuff up. They’re looking for what the techies would call “life hacks” that can help them prioritize life essentials. If we can communicate our values in a real way that isn’t propped by appeals to the authority of tradition, then we can reach these seekers.</p>
<p>So now that “Normcore” is appearing in places like <i>Huffington Post</i> , the <i>New York Times</i> and fashion magazines, will Friends be able to talk more about it? Do we still have a collective witness in regards to the materialism and ego-centricity of fashion marketing?</p>
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		<post-id xmlns="com-wordpress:feed-additions:1">38541</post-id>	</item>
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		<title>I too can buy kid clothes!</title>
		<link>https://www.quakerranter.org/i_too_can_buy_kid_clothes/</link>
					<comments>https://www.quakerranter.org/i_too_can_buy_kid_clothes/#comments</comments>
		
		<dc:creator><![CDATA[Martin Kelley]]></dc:creator>
		<pubDate>Fri, 01 Jun 2007 17:09:29 +0000</pubDate>
				<category><![CDATA[clothes]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[guess]]></category>
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		<guid isPermaLink="false">http://www.quakerranter.org/?p=268</guid>

					<description><![CDATA[!&#62;http://aycu07.webshots.com/image/16606/2001600235028037539_rs.jpg! A possible addition to my page of “odd search phrases”:https://www.quakerranter.org/its_light_that_makes_me_uncomfortable_and_other_googlisms.php that bring people to my site is this one from early this afternoon: “Why Men Shouldn’t be Allowed to Buy Clothes for Children”:http://www.google.com/search?hl=en&#38;q=Why%20Men%20Shouldn%27t%20be%20Allowed%20to%20Buy%20Clothes%20for%20Children&#38;btnG=Search There’s QuakerRanter.org at number eleven. Oh the shame of it! I’m going to run to W*LM*RT right now, well I would [&#8230;]]]></description>
										<content:encoded><![CDATA[<p>!&gt;http://aycu07.webshots.com/image/16606/2001600235028037539_rs.jpg! A possible addition to my page of “odd search phrases”:https://www.quakerranter.org/its_light_that_makes_me_uncomfortable_and_other_googlisms.php that bring people to my site is this one from early this afternoon:<br>
“Why Men Shouldn’t be Allowed to Buy Clothes for Children”:http://www.google.com/search?hl=en&amp;q=Why%20Men%20Shouldn%27t%20be%20Allowed%20to%20Buy%20Clothes%20for%20Children&amp;btnG=Search<br>
There’s QuakerRanter.org at number eleven. Oh the shame of it! I’m going to run to W*LM*RT right now, well I would if only I kind of knew the kid’s sizes, ummm… I could call Julie at work and ask her I guess…</p>
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		<post-id xmlns="com-wordpress:feed-additions:1">268</post-id>	</item>
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		<title>Reading John Woolman 3: The Isolated Saint</title>
		<link>https://www.quakerranter.org/reading_woolman_part_three_the/</link>
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		<dc:creator><![CDATA[Martin Kelley]]></dc:creator>
		<pubDate>Thu, 17 Aug 2006 00:30:25 +0000</pubDate>
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		<guid isPermaLink="false">http://www.quakerranter.org/?p=230</guid>

					<description><![CDATA[Reading John Woolman Series: 1: The Public Life of a Private Man 2: The Last Safe Quaker 3: The Isolated Saint It’s said that John Woolman re-wrote his Journal three times in an effort to excise it of as many “I” references as possible. As David Sox writes in Johh Woolman Quintessential Quaker, “only on [&#8230;]]]></description>
										<content:encoded><![CDATA[<p><strong>Reading John Woolman Series:<br>
1: <a href="https://www.quakerranter.org/reading-woolman-1-public-life-private-man/">The Public Life of a Private Man</a><br>
2: <a href="https://www.quakerranter.org/reading-john-woolman-2-last-safe-quaker/">The Last Safe Quaker</a><br>
3: <a href="https://www.quakerranter.org/reading_woolman_part_three_the/">The Isolated Saint</a></strong></p>
<p>It’s said that John Woolman re-wrote his <em>Journal</em> three times in an effort to excise it of as many “I” references as possible. As David Sox writes in <em>Johh Woolman Quintessential Quaker</em>, “only on limited occasion do we glimpse Woolman as a son, a father and a husband.” Woolman wouldn’t have been a very good blogger. Quoting myself from my introduction to Quaker blogs:</p>
<blockquote><p>blogs give us a unique way of sharing our lives—how our Quakerism intersects with the day-to-day decisions that make up faithful living. Quaker blogs give us a chance to get to know like-minded Friends that are separated by geography or artificial theological boundaries and they give us a way of talking to and with the institutions that make up our faith community.</p></blockquote>
<p>I’ve read many great Woolman stories over the years and as I read the Journal I eagerly anticipated reading the original account. It’s that same excitement I get when walking the streets of an iconic landscape for the first time: walking through London, say, knowing that Big Ben is right around the next corner. But Woolman kept letting me down.</p>
<p>One of the AWOL stories is his arrival in London. The <em>Journal’s</em> account:</p>
<blockquote><p>On the 8th of Sixth Month, 1772, we landed at London, and I went straightway to the Yearly Meeting of ministers and elders, which had been gathered, I suppose, about half an hour. In this meeting my mind was humbly contrite.</p></blockquote>
<p>But set the scene. He had just spent five weeks crossing the Atlantic in steerage among the pigs (he doesn’t actually specify his non-human bunkmates). He famously went out of his way to wear clothes that show dirt <em>because they show dirt</em>. He went straightaway: no record of a bath or change of clothes. Stories abound about his reception, and while are some of dubious origin, there are first hand accounts of his being shunned by the British ministers and elders. The best and most dubious story is the theme of another post.</p>
<p>I trust that Woolman was honestly aiming for meekness when he omitted the most interesting stories of his life. But without the context of a lived life he becomes an ahistorical figure, an icon of goodness divorced from the minutiae of the daily grind. Two hundred and thirty years of Quaker hagiography and latter-day appeals to Woolman’s authority have turned the tailor of Mount Holly into the otherworldly Quaker saint but the process started at John’s hands himself.</p>
<p>Were his struggles merely interior? When I look to my own ministry, I find the call to discernment to be the clearest part of the work. I need to work to be ever more receptive to even the most unexpected prompting from the Inward Christ and I need to constantly practice humility, love and forgiveness. But the practical limitations are harder. For years respectibility was an issue; relative poverty continues to be one. It is asking a lot of my wife to leave responsibility for our two small boys for even a long weekend.</p>
<p>How did Woolman balance family life and ministry? What did wife Sarah think? And just what was his role in the sea-change that was the the “Reformation of American Quakerism” (to use Jack Marietta’s phrase) that forever altered American Friends’ relationship with the world and set the stage for the schisms of the next century.</p>
<p>We also lose the context of Woolman’s compatriots. Some are named as traveling companions but the colorful characters go unmentioned. What did he think of the street-theater antics of <a href="http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Benjamin_Lay">Benjamin Lay</a>, the Abbie Hoffman of Philadelphia Quakers. The most widely-told tale is of Lay walking into Philadelphia Yearly Meeting sessions, opening up a cloak to reveal military uniform underneath, and declaring that slave-made products were products of war, plunged a sword into a hollowed-out Bible full of pig’s blood, splattering Friends sitting nearby.</p>
<p>What role did Woolman play in the larger anti-slavery awakening happening at the time? It’s hard to tell just reading his <em>Journal</em>. How can we find ways to replicate his kind of faithfulness and witness today? Again, his <em>Journal</em> doesn’t give much clue.</p>
<hr>
<p>Picked up today in the Philadelphia Yearly Meeting Library:</p>
<ul>
<li><em>The Reformation of American Quakerism</em>, by Jack Marietta</li>
<li><em>John Woolman Quintessential Quaker</em>, by David Sox</li>
<li><i style="color: #000000;"><a href="http://www.quakerbooks.org/get/0-87574-940-2">The Tendering Presence: Essays on John Woolman</a></i>, edited by Mike Heller</li>
</ul>
<p>PYM Librarian Rita Varley reminded me today they mail books anywhere in the US for a modest fee and a $50/year subscription. It’s a great deal and a great service, especially for isolated Friends. The PYM catalog is online too!</p>
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		<post-id xmlns="com-wordpress:feed-additions:1">230</post-id>	</item>
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		<title>Reading John Woolman 2: The Last Safe Quaker</title>
		<link>https://www.quakerranter.org/reading-john-woolman-2-last-safe-quaker/</link>
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		<dc:creator><![CDATA[Martin Kelley]]></dc:creator>
		<pubDate>Thu, 10 Aug 2006 13:30:30 +0000</pubDate>
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		<guid isPermaLink="false">http://www.quakerranter.org/?p=37070</guid>

					<description><![CDATA[Reading John Woolman Series: 1: The Public Life of a Private Man 2: The Last Safe Quaker 3: The Isolated Saint Someone who only knew Woolman from articles in popular Quaker periodicals might be forgiven for a moment of shock when opening his book. John Woolman is so much more religious than we usually acknowledge. [&#8230;]]]></description>
										<content:encoded><![CDATA[<p><strong>Reading John Woolman Series:<br>
1: <a href="https://www.quakerranter.org/reading-woolman-1-public-life-private-man/">The Public Life of a Private Man</a><br>
2: <a href="https://www.quakerranter.org/reading-john-woolman-2-last-safe-quaker/">The Last Safe Quaker</a><br>
3: <a href="https://www.quakerranter.org/reading_woolman_part_three_the/">The Isolated Saint</a></strong></p>
<p>Someone who only knew Woolman from articles in popular Quaker periodicals might be forgiven for a moment of shock when opening his book. John Woolman is so much more religious than we usually acknowledge. We describe him as an activist even though he and his contemporaries clearly saw and named him a minister. There are many instances where he described the inhumanity of the slave trade and he clearly identified with the oppressed but he almost always did so with from a Biblical perspective. He acknowledged that religious faithfulness could exist outside his beloved Society of Friends but his life’s work was calling Friends to live a profoundly Christian life. Flip to a random page of the journal and you’ll probably count half a dozen metaphors for God. Yes, he was a social activist but he was also a deeply religious minister of the gospel.</p>
<p>So why do we wrap ourselves up in Woolman like he’s the flag of proto-liberal Quakerism? In an culture where Quaker authority is deeply distrusted and appeals to the Bible or to Quaker history are routinely dismissed, he has become the last safe Friend to claim. His name is invoked as a sort of talisman against critique, as a rhetorical show-stopper.&nbsp;<em>“If you don’t agree with my take on the environment/tax resistance/universalism, you’re the moral equivalent of Woolman’s slave holders.”</em>&nbsp;(Before the emails start flooding in, remember I’m writing this as a&nbsp;<a href="https://web.archive.org/web/20060830025652/http://www.nonviolence.org/martink/the_end_is_near.php">dues-paying</a>&nbsp;<a href="https://web.archive.org/web/20060830025652/http://www.nonviolence.org/">activist Quaker</a>&nbsp;myself.) We don’t need to agree with him to engage with him and learn from him. But we do need to be honest about what he believed and open to admitting when we disagree. We shouldn’t use him simply as a stooge for our own agenda.</p>
<p>I like Woolman but I have my disagreements. His scrupulousness was over the top. My own personality tends toward a certain purity, exemplified by fifteen years of veganism, my plain dress, my being car-less into my late thirties. I’ve learned that I need to moderate this tendency. My purity can sometimes be a sign of an elitism that wants to separate myself from the world (I’ve learned to laugh at myself more). Asceticism can be a powerful spiritual lens but it can also burn a self- and world-hatred into us. I’ve had friends on the brink of suicide (literally) over this kind of scrupulousness. I worry when a new Friend finds my&nbsp;<a href="https://web.archive.org/web/20060830025652/http://www.nonviolence.org/quaker/plain/">plain pages</a>&nbsp;and is in broadfalls and bonnets a few weeks later, knowing from my own experience that the speed of their gusto sometimes rushes a discernment practice that needs to rest and settle before it is fully owned (the most personally challenging of the&nbsp;<a href="https://web.archive.org/web/20060830025652/http://www.tractassociation.org/FiveTestsForDiscerningATrueLeading.html">traditional tests of Quaker discernment</a>&nbsp;is “patience”).</p>
<p>John Woolman presents an awfully high bar for future generations. He reports refusing medicine when illness brought him to the brink of death, preferring to see fevers as signs of God’s will. While that might have been the smarter course in an pre-hygienic era when doctors often did more harm than good, this Christian Scientist-like attitude is not one I can endorse. He sailed to England deep in the hold along with the cattle because he thought the woodwork unnecessarily pretty in the passenger cabins. While his famous wearing of un-dyed garments was rooted partly in the outrages of the manufacturing process, he talked much more eloquently about the inherent evil of wearing clothes that might hide stains, arguing that anyone who would try to hide stains on their clothes would be that much more likely to hide their internal spiritual stains (all I could think about when reading this was that he must have left child-rearing duties to the well-inclined Sarah).</p>
<p>Woolman proudly relates (in his famously humble style) how he once tried to shut down a traveling magic act that was scheduled to play at the local inn. I suspect that if any of us somehow found ourselves on his clearness committee we might find a way to tell him to… well,&nbsp;<em>lighten up</em>. I sympathize with his concerns against mindless entertainment but telling the good people of Mount Holly that they can’t see a disappearing rabbit act because of his religious sensibilities is more Taliban than most of us would feel comfortable with.</p>
<p>He was a man of his times and that’s okay. We can take him for what he is. We shouldn’t dismiss any of his opinions too lightly for he really was a great religious and ethical figure. But we might think twice before enlisting the party pooper of Mount Holly for our cause.</p>
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		<post-id xmlns="com-wordpress:feed-additions:1">37070</post-id>	</item>
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		<title>Buying my Personality in a Store</title>
		<link>https://www.quakerranter.org/buying_my_personality_in_a_sto/</link>
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		<dc:creator><![CDATA[Martin Kelley]]></dc:creator>
		<pubDate>Wed, 08 Sep 2004 12:54:15 +0000</pubDate>
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		<guid isPermaLink="false">http://www.quakerranter.org/?p=108</guid>

					<description><![CDATA[A guest piece by Amanda Originally posted as a comment to “My Experiments with Plainness”, Amanda’s story deserves its own post: “I’ve noticed that I’m becoming really attached to my clothes. As I was grimly and methodically culling my closet, a whiny, desperate voice in my head piped up, and I began to have a [&#8230;]]]></description>
										<content:encoded><![CDATA[<p><b>A guest piece by Amanda</b></p>
<p><i>Originally posted as a comment to “My Experiments with Plainness”, Amanda’s story deserves its own post: “I’ve noticed that I’m becoming really attached to my clothes. As I was grimly and methodically culling my closet, a whiny, desperate voice in my head piped up, and I began to have a serious conversation with myself… [A] reservation I have is that plain dressing may just be another way of telegraphing the image I want the world to have of me. Only instead of that message being ‘I am cool and worthy of your attention and envy’ the message might be ‘I’m so hoooooly’.”</i></p>
<p>Hi there!</p>
<p>I am 21, and the only member of my family who attends meetings of Friends. (I am not a Friend yet, being young to the whole experience, and an ex-catholic, and having wandered for several years in strange paths!! 🙂 However, I am taking it very seriously, and reading all I can get my hands on. I feel a strong call towards plain dress, and have gone through fits and starts of it spontaneously, even as a Catholic child. At 12, I decided I would no longer wear colours in imitation of all the siants habits I saw in my books, and my friends and I (I grew up in rural Canada, homeschooled, the oldest of 11 kids, an anarchonism to begin with) tried sewing our own clothes ourselves, praire dresses and pinafores. </p>
<p>When I was 14, we moved to the States, to the suburbs, away from our uber-traditional Catholic enclave, and I began to normalize myself out of the “homeschooler uniform” (its own sort of plain dress — those terrible jumpers with ankle socks and canvas sneakers! Ack!) and into mainstream fashion, where I’ve been solidly entrenched ever since, especially since moving to <span class="caps">NYC.</span></p>
<p>I am now in the process of purging a lot of my stuff, and seeking a simpler way of living. I quit smoking, and have decided that drinking as a recreational activity is out unless it’s an organized event. This may become more strict in time, but I have to ease into it a little bit. I got rid of several bags of clothes and a bunch of household items I was hoarding “just in case I might need them someday”. Classic. A lot of things have precipitated this, but one of them is my absolute horror at how I’ve gone from making $12,000 a year to nearly $30,000, and I still am saving no money at all, nor am I making any lasting purchase/investments, etc…I’m just spending it on vain and useless things. I’ve noticed as well, that I’m starting to have more and more big-salary fantasises, and recreationally go to stare in shop windows at clothes, not just to appreciate the asthetic value of some of the most gorgeous garments in the world (after all, this is Manhattan) but also to drool and covet. I found, while examining my concience, that it wasn’t even the thing — the piece of clothing that I wanted, and it wasn’t a simple desire to have something pretty. I saw myself linking these clothes and things to my self worth and future happiness. You know:</p>
<p>“Once I am thin and rich enough to wear this, I will be happy. I will be so happy. So very happy. Everything will be perfect, and my hair will always be straight, and I will have my teeth veneered, and I will have a handsome man who worships the ground I walk on, and three bright-eyed children who appear only on Sunday mornings to snuggle with me in my California-king-sized bed with the white crisp sheets, while I languidly smile at their frolicing and plan to buy them a golden retriever puppy later that afternoon as I stroll through an antique fair and buy a vintage wicker bird cage, which I will fill with finches and hang from my sun-drenched porch in my second house in the south of France, and I be happy. So happy. So very happy, if I am only thin and rich enough to wear those clothes.”</p>
<p>I really, really woke up one afternoon to find myself standing on 5th Ave and 59th street, on my lunch break, staring in a window, and having that fantasy with absolutely no internal ironic monolouge at all. At all. </p>
<p>It completley panicked me. </p>
<p>I’ve noticied that I’m becoming really attatched to my clothes. As I was grimly and methodically culling my closet, a whiney, desperate voice in my head piped up, and I began to have a serious conversation with myself. </p>
<p>“You can’t get rid of so many of your cool clothes. The clothes are you, they’re a huge part of who you are.”</p>
<p>“Wait,” the other voice in my head, the stern one, said (I am a schizophrenic and so am I) “You are saying that I am what I wear. That’s supposed to make me want to keep them? Do you even hear what you’re saying?”</p>
<p>The first voice was totally backtracking. </p>
<p>“No, no, no, I didn’t mean you were your clothes, or that you were only worth as much as your clothes, why do you always have to be so literal? I meant that your clothes tell people about you, about who you are and what you believe in. They’re an outside sign of who you are.”</p>
<p>“Ah.” said the second voice, rather sarcastically, I thought, “So we’d rather have people learn everything they need to know about us by our clothes, instead of having them take the time to get to know us from experience of us.”</p>
<p>“Well, that’s all very well!” said the first voice. “That’s nice in an ideal world. But the truth is, the sad truth is, most people won’t take the time to get to know you if you don’t seem cool.”</p>
<p>“Wow.” said the second voice. “Wow. This has nothing to do with fashion, does it? This totally has to do with your inferiority complex, dating back to about second grade, doesn’t it?”</p>
<p>At this point the first voice began to suck its thumb, and I realized to my horror that the second voice was right. It’s always right.</p>
<p>“Fashion is what you adopt when you don’t know who you are.” ~Quentin Crisp</p>
<p>I’ve actually begun buying my personality in a store, and telling myself that it’s okay because I’m buying it in a thrift store. I know from personal experience that the right headscarf or pair of vintage shoes, or funny t‑shirt will suddenly raise the value of my social currency off the charts. And I’m becoming really dependent on that, to the point where I’ve started to actually feel anxiety around my “style” and my clothes. I ironically played the role of fashion police for a boy at a party who was mocking me for being from Williamsburg, and although I was kidding around when I excoriated him for his American-Eagle shorts and surfer-boy hair, it struck me, I’m spouting all these “rules” as if I’m mocking them, but I actually live by them, don’t I? </p>
<p>And I’ve increasingly begun to obey them out of fear instead of out of a love of neat clothes or a sense of aesthetic. I have cooler clothes than ever, and sudenly I have a need to make more money so that I can keep looking cool, and keep fitting in, and keep proving to everyone, most of all myself, that I should be invited to Angelica’s birthday party because the whole rest of the class is and it’s not fair…oh wait. That was second grade. </p>
<p>Benjamin Franklin wrote: “Money never made a man happy yet, nor will it. There is nothing in its nature to produce happiness. The more a man has, the more he wants. Instead of its filling a vacuum, it makes one. If it satisfies one want, it doubles and trebles that want another way.”</p>
<p>This seems like a huge cliche, but you know, the more I think about it, the more it seems that the modern horror of cliches may have less to do with a love of originality than with a fear of the truth.</p>
<p>So those are the motivations — that much is worked out. But the practice of it is hard. Was I experienceing a genuine calling to plain dress as a child, or did I just read too much “Little House”? (Is there such a thing as too much “Little House”?) And now, am I just a costume-loving poser?</p>
<p>I feel a bizarre attraction to head-covering as well, though I recoil with my whole post-feminist self from those passages in the bible. I don’t think I believe in submission to anybody. In fact, I’m not sure even God wants me submissive ‑I feel he wants my co-operation.</p>
<p>“I will not now call you servants: for the servant knoweth not what his lord doth. But I have called you friends: because all things whatsoever I have heard of my Father, I have made known to you.” John 15:15</p>
<p>Another reservation I have is that plain dressing may just be another way of telegraphing the image I want the world to have of me. Only instead of that message being “I am cool and worthy of your attention and envy” the message might be “I’m so hoooooly”. Or, perhaps more positively, it might be a message that is  “witness” — a concept I am struggling with on its own — what if I make mistakes and my witness is mistaken, etc.</p>
<p>My compromise was to get rid of all the clothes I’d bought just for attention, all the clothes I was keeping for purely sentimental reasons, everything that didn’t fit, or match with anything else, etc. And to be honest, that just pared it down to where I can actually fit all my clothes in my 1 closet and dresser, a feat heretofore unknown to me. Also, a big part of this move was to start taking <i>care</i> of my clothes, something I’ve never done. I’ve made an active dicipline of something as simple as hanging up my clothes each night, as an act of respect and gratitude. It occured to me that when I am so fortunate as to have many posessions, it seems extremely wrong that I should mistreat them the way I’ve been doing. </p>
<p>Wow. Forget plain dress, plain speech is going to be an even bigger problem. I’ve written a novel.</p>
<p><i>* blush *</i></p>
<p>Anyhow, it is wonderful to see it discussed, sometimes I feel like I’m just nuts. I mean, I know I’m nuts, but I don’t like feeling that way. 🙂</p>
<p>in friendship,<br>
Amanda</p>
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		<post-id xmlns="com-wordpress:feed-additions:1">108</post-id>	</item>
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		<title>Gohn Brothers, broadfalls, &#038; men’s plain dress</title>
		<link>https://www.quakerranter.org/gohn_brothers_broadfalls_mens/</link>
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		<dc:creator><![CDATA[Martin Kelley]]></dc:creator>
		<pubDate>Mon, 26 Jul 2004 01:57:50 +0000</pubDate>
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					<description><![CDATA[A few years ago I felt led to take up the ancient Quaker testimony of plain dressing. I’ve spoken elsewhere about my motivations but I want to give a little practical advice to other men who have heard or even gotten ahold of the “Gohn Bros.” catalog but don’t know just what to order. I [&#8230;]]]></description>
										<content:encoded><![CDATA[<p>A few years ago I felt led to take up the ancient <a href="http://www.quakerquaker.org/group/plain">Quaker testimony of plain dressing</a>. I’ve spoken elsewhere <a href="https://www.quakerranter.org/2002/08/my_experiments_with_plainness/">about my motivations</a> but I want to give a little practical advice to other men who have heard or even gotten ahold of the “Gohn Bros.” catalog but don’t know just what to order. I certainly am not sanctioning a uniform for plain dress, I simply want to give those so inclined an idea of how to start.</p>
<p>Just as background: I’m a thirty-something Philadelphia native, brought up without any formal religion in a Philly suburb. I first started approaching Quakers (Friends) back in college. In my early twenties, I started working at a collectively-run pacifist book publishing house and living in what was then the sort of downscale hipster neighborhood of West Philadelphia. In 2002 I attended a week-long workshop that had some plain dressing Friends and felt the nudge to experiment. I’ve left Philadelphia to become a resident of a small farming town in South Jersey (what love will do) but I still spend a lot of time in the city and in decidedly urban settings. I don’t aim to be historically correct with my plain dress and I don’t want to simply “look like an Amish” person.</p>
<p>Gohn Brothers is a store in Indiana that sells “Amish and Plain Clothing.” It is currently celebrating it’s 100th year in business. It’s known for it’s simple print catalog, which is updated every few months. It does not have a website. You should get a copy of the catalog to get current clothing and shipping prices. It’s address is:</p>
<blockquote><p>PO Box 1110, 105 S. Main St., Middlebury IN 46540<br>
Phone: (574) 825‑2400. Toll-free: 800–595-0031</p></blockquote>
<p>When I first started “going plain,” I simply wore regular dark pants with suspenders found at a generic department store. It was important to me that I was wearing clothes I already had, and I wanted to be “Sears Plain,” by which I meant I didn’t want to go to any extremes to find plain clothing. When I first bought a pair of broadfalls (the zipperless pants favored by plain men), I didn’t wear them for months. Slowly I started started wearing them out and feeling more at ease in them. They were made of rugged denim, wore well and were quite comfortable.<br>
As my pre-plain clothes have worn out, I’ve started replacing them with Gohn Brothers-produced broadfalls. They’re just as inexpensive as any cheaply-made jeans from Old Navy but they hold up and are presumably made in Indiana by seamstresses earning a decent wage.</p>
<p><strong>Broadfalls</strong></p>
<p>Gohn Brothers offers many different weights and fabrics for their broadfall pants, numbering them for ease of ordering. I have bought two pair, both of which I like:</p>
<ul>
<li>#66: 10 oz. solid grey denim, 100% cotton: $22.98</li>
<li>#92: 100% cotton blue jean denim (11 oz.): $24.98</li>
</ul>
<p><strong>Coats</strong></p>
<p>Gohn Brothers produces a number of coats, also called “overshirts.” In these purchases I have tended to be more distinctly Quaker. I have two Coats:</p>
<ul>
<li>#225: 9oz. Poly, cotton. $41.98 at the time of this post. I have opted for a few alterations: A “regular cut” for $3.00, a “standup collar” for $2.00, “button holes with metal buttons” for $3.00 and a “quilted lining” for $5.00.</li>
<li>#125 9 oz. Black drill denim. Poly/cotton. Unlined Jacket, black drill. Alterations: “standup collar” for $2.00. (for this I had the default “snaps” in place of buttons and the default “full cut”).</li>
</ul>
<p>I’ve prefered the specialized “regular cut” coat over the standard “full cut.” The regular cut feels more like the standard suit jacket that most professional men wear to work, while the full cut felt more like a wind-breaker. I also prefer the buttons, as the snaps contributed to the wind-breaker feel.</p>
<p><strong>Suspenders</strong></p>
<p>Also known as “braces,” all you need are dark broadfalls and suspenders to really look “plain” to the world. “Tabbed” suspenders fit over buttons in your pants, while “clip-on’s” use alligator clips to fasten onto standard pants. Tabbed look better but I can’t help thinking of Michael Douglass in “Wall Street”; a lot of ordinary anabapist men I see have clip-on’s.</p>
<p>I’ve heard the story that there’s a good-hearted ribbing between the Iowa and North Carolina Conservative Quakers about whether thin or wide suspenders is more plain. I’ve started to throw my lot in with Iowa and have gotten the three-quarter inch suspenders. (Fashionistas will remember that thin suspenders were popular with a certain kind of high school geek in the mid-1980s–think Cameron in <em>Ferris Beuler’s Day Off</em>; fair disclosure requires that I admit that I wore them around Cheltenham High). Again Gohn Brothers:</p>
<ul>
<li>#550T 3/4″ tab. Black: $7.98</li>
<li>#552C 3/4″ clip. Black: $6.98</li>
</ul>
<p><strong>Hats</strong></p>
<p>While Gohn Brothers does hats, I haven’t bought any of theirs. Instead I’ve gone for the <a href="http://www.tilley.com/detail.asp?catId=&amp;gender=&amp;extractBy=CategoryId&amp;id=1&amp;productNo=T3">Tilley T3 hat</a>. I’m not complete happy with this, as Tilley’s seem to be associated with a certain kind of clueless traveler, but I’ve noticed that there are a lot of men in my yearly meeting who wear them, I think as an unconscious nod toward plainness. The Tilley is also friendlier to bike commuters: its tie-down strings wrap easily around bike handlebars, and it’s very crushable and washable.</p>
<p><strong>Not a Uniform</strong></p>
<p>Again, let me stress: <em>I am not trying to specify a modern plain dress uniform</em>. The only time you should adopt plain dress is when you’re feeling actively led by it. Sometimes that leading is an intution, which is fine, but you need to follow it on your own terms. My practice has evolved over time and yours should too. I’ve become more plain since I started this witness simply because I had to replace worn clothes and couldn’t see spending more money for shoddier clothes than I could get at Gohn Brothers. You don’t need to get broadfalls to be “plain,” as “plainness” is as much a state of mind and an attitude toward God and your spiritual community as it a set of clothes. I think of it now as a spiritual discipline, one very fitting for our consumeristic times.</p>
<p>I’d love to hear from others about their plain dressing.</p>
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		<post-id xmlns="com-wordpress:feed-additions:1">78</post-id>	</item>
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		<title>Avoiding Plain Dress Designer Clothing</title>
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		<dc:creator><![CDATA[Martin Kelley]]></dc:creator>
		<pubDate>Wed, 21 Jul 2004 11:20:14 +0000</pubDate>
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					<description><![CDATA[A guest piece by “David,” originally posted on the Plain and Modest Dress Yahoo Group. From: “mquadd” &#60;mquadd@y…&#62; Date: Wed Jul 21, 2004 Subject: Introduction and questions Hi. My name is David and I attend but am not a member of the Friends Meeting here. I was actually raised as an Episcopalian although I had [&#8230;]]]></description>
										<content:encoded><![CDATA[<p>A guest piece by “David,” originally posted on the <a href="http://groups.yahoo.com/group/PlainAndModestDress">Plain and Modest Dress Yahoo Group</a>.</p>
<p>From: “mquadd” &lt;mquadd@y…&gt;<br>
Date: Wed Jul 21, 2004<br>
Subject: Introduction and questions</p>
<p>Hi. My name is David and I attend but am not a member of the Friends Meeting here. I was actually raised as an Episcopalian although I had several uncles who were birth-right Quakers. I grew up (for my first 10 years) in Chester County, PA which traditionally was an area with a high concentration of Quakers. I would expect that this is no longer true as the area has become quite suburban with a big influx of new residents. Nonetheless, I grew up attending meeting now and then with relatives at various meetings in Chester County and northern Deleware. That was in the 1960s and was a time when some people, mostly older people (people most likely born in the 1800s meaning these people were in their 70s or 80s in the 1960s), still used plain talk. Even in the 1960s, in a fairly rural area, this was more of an excepting than the rule and was limited to the oldest members of the meeting and never used outside the Quaker community. Those who used plain talk never used it outside of the Quaker community–home, Friends, and meeting. As far as I know, they never used this type of talk for business or relations or outside the community.</p>
<p>At age 10 we moved to Lancaster County. At that time, many Memmonites who now no longer dress plain or wear coverings did still did both of these. I went to school with many Mennonite kids. In addition I became friends with several Old Order Amish families (and one Beachy family) with whom I am still friends. That was 35 years ago, I have witnessed the plain testimony weaken in each of these groups including the Old Order Amish. I actually spent much of my childhood and teenage years hanging out with one paticular Old Order Amish family as way to escape the insanity of having drug addicted and alcoholic parents. In their very simple and unstated Christianity, they were very willing to provide food, shelter, and love to a very confused boy (me).</p>
<p>Anyway, the Lancaster Conference Mennonites (now part of the largest Mennonite group) seem to be totally mainstream. Perhaps there are some who still follow the former order. The Beachy Amish now dress like conservative Mennonites and less and less like Amish. Finally, I was watched the Amish allow lots of modern changes in their discipline although their basic clothing is pretty much unchanged but sun glasses are now allowed and many Amish girls and women pluck their eyebrows–both not allowed in the 1970s. By the way, in the late 1960s they had already adopted cotton-poly blends for both clothing and quilts!</p>
<p>The reason for that, perhaps odd, biographical sketch is to give some background on my exposure to plain groups and, more importantly, plain thought. I have toyed with the idea of plain dressing although I can’t give a clear reason why I feel this. Is it a calling or am I just crazy? I do know that the stability I found in that Amish house in the 1970s most likely had a giant influence on me (a happy Amish family where I had fun vs. living in a family that was in the self-distruct mode due to addiction). I also I have clear memories of having Quaker teachers in elemently school and vanity and worldliness was a bad thing. It was during the height of the Viet Nam war, so there was this odd hippy-Quaker thing going on with some of my teachers. I am sure some of you who were around the RSF in the 1960s can relate. So here I am still toying with these ideas and still attempting to define my own religious feelings at the middle of my life (I am 45).</p>
<p>Here are a few things I do know that apply to me. First, I feel very at odds with our society that focuses on the most superfical things. Our society spends BILLIONS on make-up, hair dye, plastic surgery, breast inplants, push-up bras, designer clothes (that are no different that basic clothes except the label and might even be of lower quality).… People are judged on the these issues. Character and morality (a loaded term that seems to have been highjacked by the rightwing and ultraconservatives)seems to be secondary to these very superficial things. What we tell ourselves and our children is that we are not adequate as we are. We have to change our body and then drape it was overly priced clothes to count. The outside is more important that the inside. This is sick. It is distructive. It is a sin.</p>
<p>Beyond that, my feelings about plain dressing get less clear. Is a uniform what I am seeking? Those groups who were very uniform clothing tend to be insular and often attact as much attention to themselves as a belly shirt and designer jeans! If you doubt this, go to Lancaster County and attempt to drive on Rt. 340. The attraction that the plain people attract in that area rivals any movie star or rock concert. Lancaster gets literally millions of tourists each year. So is that type of uniform dressing that is quite distinct serving a good purpose? I am not sure but am just offering a question rather than a judgement. Other groups that dress quite plain such as ultra-orthodox Jews are not so much a tourist attraction but clearly are insular and seperate from the larger society. Many people view this as being “stand off-ish” which I hope is nobody’s goal. I have heard people apply this type of judgement to plain christian groups also.</p>
<p>So, I would be very interested in hearing what drives others to dress plain? If you are a Quaker, what has been the reaction at your meeting? I once met a plain dressing Quaker who said that he had received more negative than positive reactions when visiting other meetings. Are there any meetings where all or most members dress plain? In my childhood experiences, there was no plain dressing in any Quaker meetings in Chester County or in Deleware. I have not even run into anyone who uses plain language for over 30 years except that one plain dressing man. Clearly, I know no Quakers who have been raised with the idea of plain dressing or plain language including some of my cousins who are worldly to say the least. What makes plain. I know of “black bumper Mennonites” who drive a black bumper Mercedes. Is that plain? Why is a Volvo often considered ok but a BMW is bad? They both cost $40K. Often I see this type of thinking in those who claim to follow a less than worldly life style. I think there is always a risk of falling into the mindset of some labels being good and others being bad. Once a particular brand, say a type of hat or type of jeans, is thought to be the proper “plain uniform” does that not become the designed clothing of the plain dressers? I am not sure. What I find is that once you jump into this topic, it becomes complicated and that is not the point.</p>
<p>One final question, what benefits do you recieve from plain dressing?<br>
Thanks. David</p>
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